From the City to the Countryside -

 (Aug 31, 2012)

"What shall we do today?" I asked excitedly. "Peter! Peter! wake up! It's almost 7 (am)! The rain has  stopped and we have so much more city to explore!" By the time Peter leisurely rolled out of bed at an astonishing 7:15 the day was almost over but, with a jolt of Colombian coffee, we were off! Enroute to Monteserrate, the spectacular mirador (viewpoint) of the city. 

We strolled through the university grounds in the eastern part of the city, stopping at an Emerald dealer to learn about the Emerald mining process (apparently Colombia produces 60-70% of the world's Emeralds), gaze at the glistening jewels, and take in yet more coffee. At the gates of Monteserrate we learned that the hiking trail was closed that day. Instead we hopped on the train and glided up the steep, 70 degree slopes to the top, trying not to think about what might happen if a cable were to break sending the train into a terrifying  plunge. 

From the top of Monteserrate we could see the city expand from the wealthier administrative North, through the bustling commercial and colonial centre, to the poorer South; all nestled within a valley bordered by lush ridges. We descended the mountain via cable car, which somehow seemed much more secure than the train that had hauled us up. 

After a 'quick lunch' (literally called almuerzo corriente = $3 each!) of rice, potatoes, soup, and steak, we made our way to the National Museum across the city. Surprisingly the National Museum was also free and we spent 3 hours flowing through Colombian history from prehistoric discoveries about ancient Mayan cultures through to more recent (though benign) discussion about national social and political structures. 

Again on the TransMilenio transit system, we headed uptown to meet up with Johan, only to learn that we were all locked out of his apartment! We quickly swung into gear, with Johan jumping on a bus to the village his family lives in to fetch the other set of keys, and Peter and I organizing to stay with our other great couchsurfing friends, Oscar and Yenny (pronounced 'Jenny'). They were very kind to invite us to stay with them as their first couchsurfing guests ever!

We met with Oscar later that evening and walked through the neighbourhood of Usaquen, which had once been a separate colonial village now swallowed up by the burgeoning capital. The warm glow expelled from the beautiful upscale restaurants and pubs that lined its streets illuminated the interesting mix of colonial architecture with modern artistic flair. 

Once at Oscar and Yenny's we settled in to discussions peppered with English, French and Spanish as we enjoyed a few Colombian Club beer. Peter and Oscar stayed up into the night talking about our proposed travel plans throughout Colombia and into Venezuela. In the end, thanks to discussion with Oscar, Yenny, and Johan, and numberous internet searches, we determined that the danger presented by the Colombia-Venezuelan border was not justified by the interest we may have in viewing the effects of Chavez's socialist policies. 

The following morning, Peter and I set off to return to the National Police Museum to see the Pablo Escobar exhibit, followed by the Botero art gallery. Arriving at the door of the Police Museum disheveled and soaked from the drizzle that persisted, we were hurried inside by officers with hushed voices who led us by readied television cameras. Exhausted and cold, I tried to explain in Spanish that we had come only to see the Escobar exhibit and did not want to stay for the whole tour. Just as one of the officers, named Jeisson, was telling us that the Escobar exhibit was closed for renovations and suggesting we come back in 15 days, the impressive and decorated Museum Director strode into the waiting room, followed by the tv crew, with cameras raised and filming. "You are welcome, my friends, and you are lucky, for today I will be your tour guide. Please follow me as I tell you about the history of the police in Colombia!" Lights, Camera, Action! With barely a furtive glance, Peter and I shot up, presented our most enthusiastically pensive faces, and followed the Major through the museum, trying to look interested as he pointed to the walls saying "These are some important police officers (dramatic gesture). And these are our most important politicians (dramatic gesture)", followed by eager nodding in response. After 10 minutes of grand gestures and nodding the cameras were turned off and the Major was off to attend to more pressing matters. "You are lucky", Jeisson told us "you are going to be on national TV in a public announcement about the museum!" On the damp street outside we marveled at our "good fortune" and set off to find the Botero Museum. 

At the Botero Museum we were led through rooms and rooms of the cartoon-like paintings of Botero, one of Colombia's most celebrated painters. As we walked, our guide, Diana, highlighted Botero's use of shape and proportion as a way to play with artistic representations of local Colombian people and juxtapose the common lifestyles of those living in small village communities with the opulence of wealthier classes. All the time he seemed fascinated with the sensuality of the female form and role within society. And while Peter and I were both interested to learn of his motives and interests, neither of us thought we would really like to hang one of his pieces on our walls. 

Tired, we headed uptown once again to meet with Johan and to be reunited with our toothbrushes! 

After a rest and a chance to work on some photo uploading, Peter, Johan and I packed up and headed North out of town towards Tenjo, the beautiful village that Johan's family lives in. On the way, we became enthralled in discussion about the innovative urban policies championed by past mayor Enrique Peñalosa, who has presented urban infrastructure development as a critical way to lead community development and increased urban security within the city. The glistening prominence of the integrated TransMilenio public transportation system stands as a major outcome of Peñalosa's vision and has had a positive impact on transportation flows, security, and accessibility. This system is further supported by an impressive system of bike lanes that cut paths along Bogotá's vast boulevards, though the use of these lanes remains limited by a lack of secure space to lock bikes up once in the city center. Furthermore, the city offers vast community spaces ranging from public and well used parks and plazas to vendor-lined pedestrian walkways, all of which are well patrolled by brightly vested police officers. I was fascinated to learn of the ways in which process of modern urban planning and development erected in Bogotá has resulted in and reflected changes in the use and atmosphere of the city. 

Exhausted by such an enthusiastic urban planning discussion, I spent the afternoon scribbling in my journal while Peter and Johan went out to explore the village. They returned laden with vegetables and created a delicious stir fry for dinner.

The following morning we were energized for a hike up the hillside surrounding the village. With Estaban, a friend of Johan's from the beautiful complex that his family lives in, we climbed up waterfalls, passed petroglyph-laden boulders, and ducked under overgrown brush until finally reaching the top to sit and look down over the surrounding countryside. That afternoon we again wandered through town, sharing a beer in a small town bar and meeting with Carolina, another couchsurfer living in the village, in her vibrant coffee shop and live music venue. 

Today we have relaxed and prepared ourselves to take off for Colombia's Oriental plains this evening. One of Johan's best friends from high school lives on a finca (ranch) in the plains and we have been lucky enough to be invited along for a weekend visit.  We will be without internet or electricity for the entirety of the weekend and welcome the rare feeling of being unplugged!

After the weekend we are planning on heading North to San Gil (the adventure tourism capital of Colombia) to stay with another couchsurfer, Helmur (http://www.couchsurfing.org/people/helmer12/), and his wife Lorena.  What a life!