Up, down and around the Quilotoa track!

(Oct 7, 2012)

Update! Peter and I made it around the ‘Quilotoa Loop’ in record time! 

Quilotoa Lake

While online estimates suggest that the loop (walking between the villages of Quilotoa and Chugchilán (15km), Chugchilán and Isinlivi (14km), and Isinlivi and Sigchos (14km)) should take about three to four days, we did it in two! Upon arriving in Quilotoa at midday, we headed directly to the famous crater lake nearby to take in the view. Instead of walking around the lake (as is common), we decided to race to Chugchilán, hoping that the 6 remaining hours of sunlight would allow enough time for us to navigate the faded trails that crisscrossed the steep, sandy slopes of the highlands.

Keep right!

We took a picture of a roadside map and headed upwards into low lying clouds caught in the hills above us. We took a wrong turn once but Peter very astutely led us back to the trail by climbing up a steep embankment. Luckily after that, we continued to meet hikers heading the opposite way, who were able to keep us going in the right direction.

We passed through dusty, small towns and were welcomed by village children asking for gifts and candies as the parents stood by. We pressed on to a deep gully, which we had to walk down and then up again. In the high altitude, even the most gradual slopes left us without breath and by the time we reached Chugchilán (a mere three hours later!) we were ready to relax in our wonderful Cloud Forest Hostel.

I had heard that llama was on the menu in some of these small villages and so, while Peter was resting, I headed out on a hunt to find llama! The looks that I got were discouraging. Apparently llama is only eaten in Zambahua, the small town we had passed through while on the bus. So it seemed that I had missed my chance (I haven’t given up, though. Peru has lots of llamas!).

The quiet town of Itualo

The next morning Peter and I headed out to hike the 25km along the river to Sigchos. We arrived in a record 4 hours (though we hitchhiked the last 5km or so) and were able to hop on a bus headed back to Latacunga and our backpacks in storage.

The Quilotoa Loop was beautiful, to be sure, but we both said that we would have had more fun doing it on a motorcycle. I guess we just aren’t the hiking type!

Tomorrow we’ll be heading across the country to Puerto Lopez on the coast to do a tour of La Isla de la Plata, dubbed “the poor man’s Galapagos”.  It has many of the animals seen on the Galapagos, including the sea lions, (blue/red footed) boobies, and humpback whales, but without the $1,000 price tag. Sounds right up our alley!